The performance of the Giga Jul for lowering and rappelling is once again dependent on which mode you are using. Feeding slack in manual mode with the Giga Jul is exactly like with any other tube-style device and uses the same techniques. The Giga Jul weighs 4.3 ounces, which isn't too heavy but is almost double the weight of some other auto-block belay devices designed for multi-pitching. However, we did notice that when you pull some slack back in through the device, you take your thumb out of the loop to do so, and then must look down, away from your climber, to find the thumb loop once again. In Manual mode the Giga Jul rappels much the same as any tube style belay device and provides a smooth ride so long as it’s paired with a nice round carabiner. It also eliminates much of the non-intuitive setup found in the Mega Jul; as long as you pay careful attention to the pictorial diagrams on the side of the device and be sure to load it correctly, the Giga Jul is easy and intuitive to use. Volume to weight, weight to volume and cost conversions for Refrigerant R-401A, liquid (R140A) with temperature in the range of -51.12°C (-60.016°F) to 68.34°C (155.012°F) Weights and Measurements We found that round stock pear biners (HMS) work best, as they provide the least friction so you can easily pay out slack. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. * measured midway along slot as shown in photo. As a top pick with lots of versatility, we think it makes a great value purchase. Set up in auto-block mode hanging directly off the anchor requires using the additional carabiner hole at the top of the device, and loading the device the same as you would for manual mode. The thumb is slotted into the loop as shown here, and this hand also holds the brake rope. Dérivé de joule avec le préfixe giga-. One must loop their thumb through a special thumb loop, and then hold this loop up and out, away from the carabiner, to prevent the device from locking and keep the rope feeding smoothly. Our sample’s verified weight is 4.4 ounces and it is roughly twice as big as a Mega Jul. The Main body of the Giga jul is made from light aluminium, whilst the friction channels … The green slider simply needs to be moved to switch between the two. Once the rope is loaded, you cannot switch between types of belay style, which is to be expected. The Edelrid Giga Jul can work both as a standard tuber belay device and an assisted braking device. While the Mega Jul introduced several cool and unique features, the fact is that most people don't enjoy using it because it is too small and therefore has way too much friction from the rope unavoidably built into its use, making it effortful and annoying compared to the competition. PRODUCT INFORMATION . Using a, I-beam carabiner like the one shown here added significant friction to the system, making it much harder to pull out the needed slack quickly. Rappelling in manual mode is by far the easiest and smoothest, although we like that we can rappel in assist mode if we don't have a backup on our harness and want one. Thicker ropes seem to rub on the sidewalls of the device, adding friction, especially when the device is used in a top-down belay. I named my raptor Dead because all my tames had died before they got home. Monte uses the combination of his guiding experience and civil engineering background to critically analyze equipment and apparel providing in-depth reviews on exhaustively tested gear. However, assisted braking devices have come a long way in recent years and are definitely worth considering the next time you replace your worn out ATC, Reverso or similar device. Features of the Giga Jul Belay Device: Small eyelet for releasing … Now that we know how it works, let’s look into how well (or not) it works. That said, we like it as an option in case we don't have a prussik for backup. If you're roping up, you're going to need a belay device... How to Choose a Belay Device for Rock Climbing. Switching between different belay modes, such as assisted braking or "manual," is performed simply by moving a central slider bar within the device to one side or the other, and then loading the rope correctly for that orientation. Tech specs. Si vous perdez votre mot de passe, nous ne pourrons ni le renvoyer ni le réinitialiser. Pear / HMS. This is the smoothest way to feed slack, and also the least likely for a belayer to accidentally short rope their leader. Also worth noting, will steel construction where the rope wears this device will last you far longer than aluminum counterparts (especially if you are in sandy climbing terrain). Luckily, there are the standard hand and climber pictures on each side of the device to denote which way to load it properly. giga joule: kilojoule ›› More information from the unit converter. The device will likely outlast any traditional all-aluminum belay device but won’t last as long as an all-steel unit like the Mega Jul. The Joe Brown Shops (Est 1966) and The Climbers Shop (Est 1959) With over 100 years of retail heritage our shops are incredibly proud to offer a huge choice of clothing … The range is now exclusively assisted-braking only, hence the original Jul is no longer available. Small eyelet for releasing unit with a … This means that when rappelling the Giga Jul has to be activated to descend or to feed slack when belaying. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. Vidéo . If compared directly to an ATC-Guide or a GriGri, the Giga Jul falls a little short in both departments.It doesn’t give slack quite as easily as both devices, and it is fairly heavy, weighing 100 grams (roughly 70 grams little less than a GriGri). GearLab is reader-supported. The Edelrid Giga Jul accepts ropes from 7.1 mm to 10.0 mm, with an optimal single rope diameter of 8.6 mm to 9.7 mm for braking assisted mode. One of the great things about the Giga Jul is that it’s quite intuitive and easy to use, not a bad option so long as you’re climbing on skinny lines. A modified tube-style belay device, the Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device. S’inscrire ici. The answer is 1.0E-6. When you first pick up the Giga Jul off the rack you will notice its weight right away. Feeding slack in assisted braking mode requires learning a new technique. Partagez en privé . Not surprisingly, the sweet spot for single ropes with the Giga Jul lays at the bottom end of the spectrum in the 8.5 to 9mm range.
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